Episode 20

full
Published on:

17th May 2026

Brooklyn: A Great Hawkesbury Town.

Brooklyn is on Sydney’s northern edge, but is totally different to the rest of the city.It is a small isolated settlement on the Hawkesbury River. Arriving by train is like stepping back 100 years.
The Hawkesbury itself is somewhat ignored by Sydney residents, but it was described by a British traveller in 1873 as having scenery superior to that of the Rhine!!
Brooklyn was featured on the original 5 Pound note from 1913 to 1932. This was because of its connection with the Federation of the Australian Colonies.
To top it all off , it has the grave of Robert Buie which records that as a Lewis Gunner he was responsible for shooting down the ‘Red Baron ‘ on the 21st April , 1918. Not too many places could top that.

Transcript
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Sydney's northern outpost, Brooklyn, a great Hawkesbury town.

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The first thing I want to say about Brooklyn is it's

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just a great little place.

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it's totally unexpected.

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It's totally, cut off from Sydney.

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It's everything that Sydney isn't.

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It's surrounded by a national park, mainly the Kuring-gai Chase National Park,

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which we talked about some episodes back.

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But the wonderful thing about it is it's quiet, it's laid back,

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and basically it's probably pretty much as it was 100 years ago.

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there's no high-rise, there's no unit blocks there's none of that pressure

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that you get in Sydney, and it's, it's just a great spot to visit.

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There's, lot of good little eateries around.

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There's a park, it's called Mackell Park after the, one of the early premiers

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and, uh, one of the governor-generals of Australia years ago, which runs

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a little to the east of the town, and there's picnic shelters there.

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It's a great spot, where a family could come.

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Come by train is the best way, the old Red Rattler as we used to call it,

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and, you can make a cheap day of it.

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Um, picnic areas and a lot of historical charts, et cetera.

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So it's, it's just a great spot, and, uh, we're going through very difficult times

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at the moment, and it looks like they're not going to get any easier for some time.

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So if you wanna just do something different with your friends or

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just by yourself or with your family, just hop on the train.

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It's only about half an hour or so, perhaps a bit less north of Hornsby,

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and you arrive down and you're on the banks of the Hawkesbury.

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that's, that's a very interesting thing because Sydneysiders really,

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I think, in, in general, uh, d- generalizations are always dangerous,

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but generally don't have much appreciation of the Hawkesbury at all.

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and that may be because is actually fairly hard to access for most of its course.

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Now, the combined system is called the Nepean-Hawkesbury system.

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The Nepean River rises right down in the Southern Highlands just a little to

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the north of Robertson, and that itself is up on the top of the escarpment

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before you drop down the coast range to, uh, the Wollongong south coast area.

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And I was there last year and I went hunting for the The source of the

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Nepean, now that's always a bit of a fool's errand because, you know,

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how do you tell where a river begins?

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I mean, at some point enough little trickles coalesce to say there's a stream.

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But certainly I reached a point where there's a very beautiful, very wide

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dish-shaped area facing generally north, and that's certainly where it arises.

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And it flows down, and we'll deal with some other tributaries in a minute.

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But the Nepean becomes the Hawkesbury at the point where the Grose River joins

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it just near a place called Yarramundi, which is a bit out of Richmond.

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Now, we some years ago, there was about four or five of us, I think,

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walked, a good part of the Hawkesbury.

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We started at Mangrove Creek, which I'll mention later.

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It's one of the northern tributaries, and walked round down to Wisemans Ferry

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and then followed the river down to where the Grose River joins, and that's,

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as I say, the source of the Hawkesbury.

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It was quite funny really because we had a swim in the-- at the point where

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the rivers join, and you'd assume there you'd be as safe as houses from sharks.

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But we then learned while we were there that, someone had recently found a

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bull nose shark not, you know, 200, meters from where we were swimming.

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So, uh, no longer can we think that because we're in basically fresh water,

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we're clear of, bull nose sharks.

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So that's something to remember.

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But the Hawkesbury from that point flows through that wonderful, riparian land,

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the flat, very good river flats through, beside Richmond and beside particularly

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Windsor, and then it goes up towards, some small settlements further up.

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But then it goes into really quite heavily wooded country where it's

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basically got national parks on both sides, and that continues right up until

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Wisemans Ferry, and at that point river's been traveling generally north, but

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it then basically swings to the east.

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But between Windsor and, the Kowong Creek or Kowong Water where the walk-

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the Hawkesbury discharges into Broken Bay, there's very few settlements.

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You've got Windsor itself.

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Uh, you've got a few small farming settlements, but once you get into

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the bushland, the only settlements thereafter is, uh, Wisemans Ferry, which

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is a small but very pleasant place.

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Spencer, which is tiny, but again, a very, uh, pleasant place with

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a great few eating spots there.

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And then you come down to Brooklyn and there's Brooklyn on the southern

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side of the river and Murriny Murriny on northern side of the river.

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But for present purpose, treat them as one.

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So really, Brooklyn is the, only significant or place of any

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significance on the Hawkesbury between, Windsor and the sea.

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So it's for that reason that I think Brooklyn can be very rightly

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called a great Hawkesbury town.

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Now, if I could just come back to the Hawkesbury a bit, because as I

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say, I I think it's really ignored.

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You know, most people's involvement with the Hawkesbury, I think would be either

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crossing it at the bridge at Windsor or crossing it at the bridge at Brooklyn,

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uh, on the expressway or the old highway.

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They're really the only two spots you can cross.

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The only other two ways of getting across is there's a couple of punts on the, uh,

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river up around Wisemans Ferry and there.

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But the river system, I don't think a lot of us appreciate

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just how extraordinary it is.

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as I said, the Nepean itself rises a little to the north of Robertson on the

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Southern Highlands, but the Wollondilly is also a tributary and, tributary

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in turn to the Wollondilly, in fact rises up near Lakes Bathurst, which is

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just roughly to the east of Canberra.

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So when you're in Goulburn, you're in fact still in the Hawkesbury catchment.

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If you go to the west, it's probably even more remarkable because the Cox's

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River which rises up between Lithgow and, Majubee near a place called, uh,

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Bullen Bullen it flows down and joins the Warragamba now as part of Warragamba Dam.

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And that is in fact a tributary of the Hawkesbury and part

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of the Hawkesbury basin.

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So quite extraordinarily, when you're driving out of Ba- uh, of Lithgow rather

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you in fact cross the Cox's River, and I think it'd be quite astonishing

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to, to most people to know that that's still in the Hawkesbury catchment area.

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If you then turn to the north, there's the four Ms which are the

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northern-- generally north-south rivers that flow into the Hawkesbury

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at or to the east of Wisemans Ferry.

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And the one at Wisemans Ferry is the Macdonald River.

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Now that's the biggest of the four, and it rises in a mountain range, which is,

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a little bit north of west of Cessnock.

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So just to encapsulate that, the Hawkesbury in part rises west of Cessnock

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west of Lithgow and south of Goulburn.

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And the other incredible thing is the point where the Nepean rises is

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probably only 15 or 20 kilometers as the crow flies from, the, um, the sea.

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So in fact, that system entirely surrounds Sydney, and we're only 15 or

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20 kilometers from being on an island.

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And it's, a system that we should pay a lot more attention to because it basically

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supplies all our water from the very early Nepean system, which we've talked about

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in, past episodes through to Warragamba Dam, which was built in the '60s.

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That's where our water comes from, and we owe it-- We really owe our existence to

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uh,

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that river system.

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And I think, that's often forgotten.

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But one of the other great things is having all that, water infrastructure

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and catchment areas and protection means that again, Sydney is just surrounded

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by this extraordinary quantity of either park or catchment areas and natural bush.

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So one thing about Brooklyn, apart from being a great place, it's a

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place where people can go and have a look at the scenery, some of

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that glorious scenery, and gain an appreciation for this river which I

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say, uh, has so often been ignored.

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And it's interesting that, others, in the past have

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appreciated a lot more than we do.

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And, in a report in the Sydney Morning Herald on the 24th of April 1873,

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there was a little note about a trip that had been made by a person who

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was described as the great author and traveler, Mr. Anthony Trollope.

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Now, he was an Englishman.

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He came to Australia, he toured around, and in due course he wrote

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up, an article about, amongst other things, the Hawkesbury.

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And, uh, I'll just read this passage or part of it from The Herald in

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April 1873, and quite extraordinarily, that's almost 24th of April.

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It's almost exactly 153 years to the day when I'm just

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recording these few observations.

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It goes like this.

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It's headed to Mr. Trollope on the Hawkesbury, rather

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an interesting, headline.

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When the great author and traveler, Mr. Anthony Trollope, was being

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entertained by his New South Wales parliamentary friends at a picnic

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extending over two days amongst the charming scenery of the Hawkesbury

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River The untraveled senators could not but think that their distinguished

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guest was flatting, flattering, if not quizzing, when he told them that the

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native scenery of the Hawkesbury was superior to that of the far-famed Rhine.

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The scenery that was immortalized by Lord Byron, in a poem, and I won't

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read it all to you, but the first two lines are, " Adieu to thee, fair Rhine.

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How long delighted the stranger fain would linger on his way." And, uh, it

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then goes on to say, "And yet we find when Mr. Trollope's description of New

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South Wales comes to hand, that he devotes four pages to that ever-memorable trip

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and the scenery of the Hawkesbury, and more than confirms what he told, us

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while floating down the river in Mr.

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T.S. Mort's beautiful steam yacht, Bronze Wing, kindly placed at the disposal

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of the party by that liberal-hearted gentleman." And you recall that we did a,

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uh, a pod on Thomas Sutcliffe Mort, quite an amazing person, back some time ago.

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uh,

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so Trollope was very impressed, but when he in fact went on and

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published, his works, what he said was quite extraordinary, and

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I'll come to that in a minute.

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But in an article on the 22nd of November 1873, in this wonderful journal, which was

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called The Illustrated Sydney News and New South Wales Agricultural, Agriculturist

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and Grazier, and this was from 1873 from that distinguished paper, there's

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this description on under a heading of an article, A Trip Up the Hawkesbury.

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And in part it's this, "Lying within about 40 miles of our city, the sylvan

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loveliness of this charming river is as little known as if it were situated in

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Germany, and the time is fast arriving when we dwellers in Sydney should begin

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to arouse from our apathy and take an interest in the beauty that surrounds us."

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And this is a very interesting passage, the next paragraph.

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" We have too long subscribed to the notion that anything which is not obtained

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by means of time, trouble, distance, and expense is utterly valueless.

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And if Anthony Trollope, whose opinion ought to be worth something, will have

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been the instrument of arousing our dead sense of the beautiful, he will have done

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us New South Welshmen a kindly turn."

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And, and that of course is one of the things that I try to achieve with these

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podcasts is just Making the point that we don't have to run off around the world,

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especially present circumstances, to find things of interest and satisfaction.

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But Trollope went on in the article he wrote to say this: " There can,

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I think, be no doubt that among rivers, the Rhine has the highest

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character for sustained beauty.

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There may be special points on other streams which have endeared themselves to

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the world, such especially as the Falls of Niagara, as such as the Inn at Innsbruck

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or the Rhone at Geneva, or the Upper Lake at Killarney, which is in truth a river.

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But for continued scenery, the Rhine stands first.

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There is a river, or rather a portion of the river known to very few tourists,

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which I think beats the Rhine."

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Now bear in mind, this is 1873 this is being written.

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This is the upper Mississippi for about 150 miles below St. Paul.

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It is not my business here to describe the Mississippi, but I mention it with

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the object of saying that in my opinion, the Hawkesbury beats the Mississippi.

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I should not make the contrast unless there were many features

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in the two which are similar."

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And then it, it goes on from there.

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But he speaks in particular of the, the way the land meets the river.

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And of course, one of the great things of the Hawkesbury is once it gets

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beyond the settled agricultural lands and Windsor, you pass into these,

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what could really be called gorges.

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And then you wouldn't call them mountains, but they're certainly very big hills.

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So the Hawkesbury is worth learning about and understanding and Brooklyn

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offers a real opportunity for us to do it, and to do it cheaply and to do it

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easily, and by using public transport.

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and one thing that you can do at Brooklyn, which I'll just mention now, is that since

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about 1910, there's been a little business running called the Riverboat Postman,

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which in fact leaves from Brooklyn.

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I think it's only on weekdays, but you could easily check up online.

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And goes up to all the various settlements, houses, and all

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the small places delivering mail and goods and everything else.

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now it's many years since we've done it, but it was great.

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And, uh, if you don't know the Hawkesbury at all, that would be a fantastic way,

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uh, of getting to know it and having indeed a very pleasant trip indeed.

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But Hawkesbury, uh, the Brooklyn rather, has other historical associations,

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which I'll come to in a minute.

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So it's a very interesting place beyond just being a great place to visit source

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of the name's always been a bit of in contention, but it seems fairly clear that

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on a survey plan in January 1884 for the subdivision of land where Brooklyn now

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is the place was described as Brooklyn.

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Now, a lot of people had thought that the name Brooklyn came with the, the

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camps for the workers who built the Brooklyn Railway Bridge, which was built

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by an American company, the New York Bridge and Rail, something like that.

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But it seems clear that wherever it came from, it in fact was on a plan in 1884.

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Now Brooklyn, again, goes back to the very early part of European settlement, and

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there's an obelisk near the station, a marble obelisk just as you come down off

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the station, which was erected in 1939, but records the visit of Governor Phillip

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to the area on the 11th of June 1789.

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Now, that's only a year and a bit after we Europeans arrived.

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on that trip, he in fact reached Danger Island, and that's an island

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in the river just off Brooklyn.

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Again, you can go there by ferry.

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I must say I haven't been there, but I, after looking at it for

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this, I'll certainly be going there.

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And he initially called it Mullet Island, and the reason he did was very simple,

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is they'd managed to catch a whole host of mullet, which they had for dinner.

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So it remained as, Mullet Island until it was renet- renamed Danger

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Island when a gentleman by that name took up the grant in that

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area, and that was some years later.

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And I should just, mention here the original first peoples in the area,

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the Darug peoples, they called the Hawkesbury Dyarubbin, D-Y-A-R-U-B-B-I-N.

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So we should really refer to it with both those names.

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Now the railway has played a very big part in the prominence of Brooklyn because it

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was in fact the building of the railway bridge at Brooklyn across the Hawkesbury

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that in fact completed certainly the unification of the rail system in

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New South Wales, but also enabled all the various disparate colonies in the

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eastern colonies to be joined together by rail the contract for the building

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of the bridge was let in January 1886 to the Union Bridge Company of New York.

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and when the camp was put in for the building of the bridge,

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they adopted the name Brooklyn.

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Now it seems that some people always said, "Oh, yes, well, it was 'cause they were

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from New York and Brooklyn is Brooklyn." But it seems that Brooklyn was probably

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Brooklyn because someone had called it that for whatever reason back in, 1884.

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But it certainly joined up the New South Wales railway system because what had

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happened in New South Wales is that a rail system developed from Sydney which

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serviced the west and the southwest and the south, and an independent system

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developed from Newcastle which went to the north and northeast, northwest, and

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these were joined by this railway line.

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So it, it did have a very particular system

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uh,

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a, a very particular effect in bringing a sense of unity and

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a sense of communication to the various disparate colonies.

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And it was said at the opening of the bridge which joined the railway system

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together, that that enabled someone to travel from Charleville in Queensland,

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which is right out in west of Queensland, pretty well directly west of Brisbane, to

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Coward Springs in South Australia, which is right up to the west of Lake Eyre.

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So it was an enormously significant event which happened to give

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Brooklyn a very great prominence.

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And that distance, with the opening of the bridge and the linking of the

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system, you could travel by rail, 4,140 kilometers, and this had a huge effect

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on a sense of unity for the colonies.

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Now, we'll come back to that in a minute because Sir Henry Parkes, who's often

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called one of the fathers of federation, gave a speech, might I say a very

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long speech, at the opening ceremony.

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But I just wanna mention one thing before that, and it goes back to 1891.

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And there'd been a lot of movement in all the colonies to thinking about

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federation and that was becoming quite structured and serious by 1890,

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and there was to be the first formal federation convention in Sydney in 1891.

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and one of the people who was a very forceful advocate of this

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was Samuel Griffiths, who had been a former premier of Queensland.

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And was actively involved, um, was one of the people attending

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for Queensland at the convention.

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And in those days because of transport problems, the Queensland government

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had its own boat called the Lucinda.

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And in fact, in March 1891, Sir Samuel Griffiths was on the Lucinda,

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and in the process of the voyage was doing his first draft of what

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became the Australian Constitution.

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And the Lucinda put into Broken Bay and round into the Hawkesbury in March

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1981, and remained there for some days because they were a bit ahead of time

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and, uh, they wanted to allow use up a bit of time before they got to Sydney.

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And whilst there, Sir Samuel continued his writing of the Constitution.

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So once again, i- in a quite extraordinary coincidence, Brooklyn has that

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connection to the cause of federation as well as the, the railway line.

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Now as I say, the railway was a, a particularly big event and, there was a

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huge celebration and a huge dinner, uh, lunch rather, uh, on the 1st of May 1889.

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They'd tested the bridge in April.

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They sent locomotives over the bridge to make sure it's all right.

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I wonder how they drew lots for who drove the locomotives in those circumstances.

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But for the purposes, they had a huge barge which had been used for the building

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of the bridge, and they moored it over near Dawngar Island and set up this most

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magnificent banquet hall with drapes and huge event, probably hundreds of people.

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And it was a big event.

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And again, it was, it was at Brooklyn, and Sir Henry Parkes spoke there.

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Now, as I say, it's a very long speech.

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He was a very, he was a very interesting person, a bit mercurial.

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But, he certainly could give a long speech.

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Now, the first thing that struck me is he began his speech

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by, " My lord and gentlemen."

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I mean, that's quite extraordinary, isn't it?

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That's you know, some 130 years ago.

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But the ladies entirely ignored.

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Although oddly enough, at the end of the order of ceremonies, there was

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some man giving a toast to the ladies.

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But, um, it's all a bit extraordinary.

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But anyway, that was how they did it in those days.

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Now, there's just a couple of passages I wanna read from, Sir Henry Parkes'

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speech, and he certainly could get out some glossy prose on this beautiful

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labyrinth of waters, many national enjoyments have taken place, and today

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we meet to celebrate the erection of a work which will connect the

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bulk of the Australian population.

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It is almost impossible to find time to dwell upon what the future may be.

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That is God's unknown, and the wise amongst us cannot measure the future.

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But we may be assured that a gigantic progress will take place in our midst.

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Invention and science will have some of their highest achievements here, and

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we hope that wisdom will show herself in a sober and most attractive form.

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And he then spoke about how this was linking up Queensland and South Australia.

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Uh, but at the end of his speech, he said this: " In this great system of

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material arteries which we complete today, we see the crimson fluid of kinship

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pulsing through all the iron veins.

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In mortal marriage, as it is said, whom God has joined

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together, let no man put asunder.

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In contemplating the great powers of Australian progress, which enterprise,

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invention, and noble emul- emulation and nature have here brought together, may not

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the united heart of this great gathering put up the devout prayer that no human

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force in the long invisible hereafter may be strong enough to rend them asunder."

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That was received with loud cheers.

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It was certainly pretty flowery, but you could see what he was driving at.

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And the toast was simply, " I ask you to drink the toast of United

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Australia." And the note, in a wonderful book by a bloke called Richmond, on,

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uh... He's a chap who lives there.

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He was a school principal in Sydney, on the, the Brooklyn.

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he says this observation, which is very true.

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" The ceremonies on the pontoon off Dangar Island deserve

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recognition as a significant step in the progress to federation.

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The banquet brought together leaders from all over New South

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Wales as repres- as well as representatives from other colonies.

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There was an obvious recognition that this event marked the

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overcoming of an important physical barrier, barrier to federation."

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So quite extraordinarily, the wonderful little town of Brooklyn,

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as I say, just a wonderful backwater, has this most extraordinary history.

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But there's one other matter I, uh, should mention, or a

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few other incidental matters.

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it also had the distinction, Brooklyn, of appearing on the

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first £5 note when the Australian government began issuing Its currency.

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And it was taken from a hill, the hill at the back to the south.

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There used to be an old hotel called the Sanatorium Hotel, and it was

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looking over the inlet and, uh, to the northwest where the road bridge is now.

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And that was on the £5 note for the Commonwealth from 1913 to 1932.

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And interestingly, back in those days, the banks used to issue their

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own, uh, currency, and the Bank of New South Wales, uh, back in the

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19th century, issued their £1 note.

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In fact, had a picture of the railway bridge, at Brooklyn.

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and it's, it's quite a distinctive little note.

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So there it is.

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it's a little place but it's got a great history.

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it's got a great present attitude and, it's well worth a visit.

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Uh, there's just three other things I'll mention very briefly.

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It is on the Great North Walk, so if you're super keen.

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God me, goodness.

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On the Great North Walk, and it's-- the track comes down from Cowwarr.

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I walked it many years ago.

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I'm glad I did years ago.

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But it's, it's a difficult walk, but it's a great walk.

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And there's also a very interesting note somewhere that, things haven't

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always been glossy in Brooklyn, because apparently in 1892, there was great

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contention by the residents because for some reason there was an excess of pigs

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wandering around in the, in the towns.

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But I don't know what that's all about.

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But I see, goodness, time goes so quickly.

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Tempus fugit.

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I just want to finish with two things.

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One is when I say that... Or three things, actually.

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One other thing I want to say is that when I say it's the same as it was 100

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years ago, it's with one huge exception.

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The, the present hotel, the Anglers Arms, is a great place, recently

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renovated, well worth a visit.

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But its predecessor, roughly 100 years ago, was a magnificent old hotel called

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the Hawkesbury River Railway Hotel.

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And it was one of those huge weatherboard hotels with an upstairs

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veranda and the awnings below, and it had a wonderful pointed tower.

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And it's a great shame we lost that.

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And, um, the other matter is simply this, and it's a good thing to finish

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because whatever else Brooklyn can claim, I think this might be the real doozy.

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Because if you go to the cemetery at Brooklyn, it's situated a little

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to the west of the town, adjacent to the old Pacific Highway you will

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be able to find somewhere there the grave of Robert Buie, B-U-I-E.

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Now Buie, and the tomb-tombstone says this, was responsible for the shooting

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down of Manfred von Richthofen, who was in fact the German Red Baron.

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Now, I made some inquiries into this, and it seems that it's not 100% sure it

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was Buie, but he's certainly one of two.

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There was a Canadian pilot c- in his plane who was engaged in a joist with the Red

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Baron, but it was worked out that when he fired his weapon, it was too soon.

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The, Red Baron went on for a bit longer than that.

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But there were two Lewis gunners

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uh,

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on the ground firing, and there's some contention as to whose gun,

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whose bullet really hit the Red Baron, but Buie is certainly one of them.

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So there you go.

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Brooklyn can claim to have the grave of certainly one of the

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men who downed the Red Baron.

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That's it.

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That's 32 minutes.

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Goodness, goodness.

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Just two very quick little facts.

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Three, I suppose.

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We were in Adelaide last week and walking along that wonderful North

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Terrace, and there's statues everywhere.

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It's a fantastic place to amble, wander.

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I was wandering along, and I came upon a statue to Matthew Flinders,

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and it only then dawned on me that Flinders was only 40 when he died.

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not far away from him, there's a statue to Robbie Burns, the great Scottish poet.

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He died at 36.

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People still have dinners everywhere every year on Burns Night.

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And of course, that fits in with, uh, Flinders' mate, Bass, who was only

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30 or 30 or 31 when he sailed out of Sydney Heads, never to be seen again.

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And it's this extraordinary thing that people lived what we would

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regard as very short lives, but achieved an enormous amount.

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So that's it.

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Enough from me.

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Put Brooklyn on a, a day trip.

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It'll be well worth it.

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So until next time, keep ambling, choose to be happy, and until then, cheerio.

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About the Podcast

Urban Ambling
Gerard Mercator was born in Flanders ( now part of Belgium ) in 1512.
It is unlikely that he ever travelled more than 100 kms from where he was born.
Despite this, he devised a projection which resulted in maps of the then known world.
The book of maps he produced was named ‘An Atlas ‘. He gave us the word. His map projection was still in use 400 years later!
We spend so much time travelling to other places that we forget there is much to see and learn in our own surroundings. There is interest and comfort in the ordinary things in our lives.
I hope these podcasts will encourage you to engage in a bit of serendipitous , and happy, ambling in your area.
Mercator.